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 on: March 21, 2016, 09:47:04 am 
Started by Ken - Last post by Ken
Nipper Rabbitry is located in rural Turner County Georgia. I have been raising rabbits for almost 30 years. My rabbit barn has only 16 cages and I can produce over 200 juniors per year. 8)

 on: March 21, 2016, 09:22:06 am 
Started by Ken - Last post by Ken
You go to check on your new doe to see if she had kits and discover kits everywhere! They are on the ground and cage floor and are cold.

The first thing to do is gather them and take them to a source of warm water to give them a warm bath. Be very careful not to allow water in their nose and mouth as they will drown.
Once they are warm and clean use a blow dryer on low to dry and warm them. Once they are clean and warm return them to the mother and put them inside the nestbox. Make sure the doe pulled hair and has made a nest and if she did not them use some extra saved fur to make the nest yourself.

Keep an eye on the kits every few hours for the first few days to make sure mom is nursing the kits and she has not urinated on them. If she urinated on them then clean the nestbox and reinsert the kits and move the nestbox to a different spot in the cage.

 on: March 21, 2016, 08:59:49 am 
Started by Ken - Last post by Ken
Some people have problems breeding their rabbits and getting them to have kits. Well I have been breeding them forever and one thing I have found is that a rabbit has to stay in practice when it comes to breeding and kindling. I keep my mother rabbits on a schedule and breed them every so many days according to their age. The young does are started at 47 days and that means the doe is bred to the buck every 47 days. She stays on that schedule for the first two years and then is rescheduled for a higher number of days between breeding. I use the https://rabbitbreeder.net website to keep up with when to breed. A new mother may take a couple of tries before she gets it right so have patience and make sure the mother is calm and has a nestbox on day 27 of her pregnancy. I give my rabbits treats of carrots and other veggies and also spend time cutting their toe nails and grooming them. This helps keep them calm and they get to know you better. Then when it comes time to breed, the doe will be more receptive.
Keep some clean fur in a bag by collecting some when does pull too much. This will come in handy when does urinate in the nestbox. Check the nestbox everyday to make sure that there are no dead kits and that mom did not use it as a bathroom last night. If that happens, clean the nestbox and add new hay and some of the fur you have saved. You have to make the nest yourself because mother rabbits will not. Also try to keep the kits in the back of the nestbox so mom does not jump right on top of them when she enters the nest for nursing.
Get the nestbox out as soon as the kits have opened their eyes and the weather permits. The nestbox is a source of contamination and germs so the sooner the kits can get out the better. Unless it is really cold weather I remove the nestbox on day 12 after kindling. Start handling kits right away so they get to know you.
If the doe is set at a fast schedule such as 47 days then the kits will need to be weaned around 4 weeks. The doe will kindle again two weeks later so she can have a little rest. If you wish to keep the kits with the mother for a longer period then you cannot use a 47 day schedule. Instead say for an 8 weeks weaning, the doe should be set to around 72 days to give her time to wean and then rest for two weeks.
Those of you who breed only a couple times a year or less will sometimes see does that are not in practice and don't know what to do so they are not very receptive and can have problems breeding, kindling, and raising kits. If having too many kits is a problem then solve this by giving the unwanted kits away or selling them or learn to butcher them. Rabbit meat is the best there is.

 on: March 13, 2015, 02:34:39 pm 
Started by Ken - Last post by Ken
Growing fodder from seeds is the simple practice of sprouting wheat, barley, oats, or some other grain and feeding the roots and green parts as food.
A rabbit can eat at least 1 lbs. of fodder spouts per day.
Fodder spouts for wheat and barley take about 8 days to grow.
Seeds must be kept moist but not sitting in water and allowed to rot.
There should be no mildew on your spouts and if it develops add a fan and move to a drier location.
Best temperature for sprouting is 65'F - 85'F.
Soak seeds in water for first 12-18 hours.

The nutritional value of the sprouted seeds is not agreed upon. Some say it is more nutritious and the sprouts will provide all the nutrients necessary and some completely disagree saying that the sprouts only contain more water but have not added more nutrients. I welcome your comments and replies.

 on: March 13, 2015, 02:19:53 pm 
Started by Rabbit Lover - Last post by Ken
If your rabbit is a show rabbit then it should like being around people.

 on: March 04, 2015, 05:12:48 pm 
Started by Ken - Last post by Ken
Adding a rabbit is easy.
Just go to the add rabbit page https://rabbitbreeder.net/Main/AddNew.aspx.
Add oldest and even dead rabbits that need to show on the rabbit's pedigree. If a rabbit is on a pedigree but you don't own it just check the pedigree only box to show this.
By selecting the sire and dam (parents) the pedigree family is automatically handled by the website software. Now double check the information for the new rabbit and click submitt and your done.

Thanks Ken

 on: January 23, 2015, 07:48:16 am 
Started by Ken - Last post by Ken
Step 1. Creating an Account
     Go to the RabbitBreeder.Net new account register page and enter the following:
  • User Name. This will become your log in name. Don't forget this name because you will use it to log in.
  • Email address. This will be used to communicate with you and to recover a forgotten password.
  • Password. Enter at least 8 letters and numbers.
  • Confirm Password. Re-enter the same password again to make sure.
  • Select a security question you will remember.  This used for security and identification.
  • Enter the answer. Remember the answer exactly.
  • Agree to the terms and conditions. Check this box
  • Enter the code generated by the re-captcha. This is hard to read unless your human so it helps to deter automated registration and spam.
  • Click the "Create My Account" button.
  • Wait while the website check your entries to make sure it is correct.
  • If there is an error or incorrect entry the website will notify you and display the appropriate action.
  • If no error is detected the account is created and you are logged in and redirected to the payment section.

Step 2 Payment - RabbitBreeder.Net is only $20 per year!
    Your account is now active and you are logged in.
    RabbitBreeder.net is only $20.00 US dollars for each year.
    Your rabbit data is exportable so if you ever decide to leave RabbitBreeder.Net you can take your valuable data with you.
Step 3 Account Completion
    If you don't see your user name at the top right corner then go to the login page.
    Make sure your in the members area of the website by clicking the Members button at the top of any page.
    On the left side menu open "Member Services" and select "My Account". This will take you to your account edit page.
    Use this page to make changes to your account and also add more personal information so that certain website reatures may be activated.
    These items include the message service. The message service can send you a reminder for such event like due dates for kindlings and nest boxes due but in order
    to use the mobile text feature you will need to enter your mobile phone number and carrier information.
    The information you enter in strictly confidential and we don't share any of you personal data with anyone. The data you enter is also encrypted and would be very
    difficult to decrypt.
    Save any changes and then your ready to begin using the RabbitBreeder.Net website.
    The next step is adding your rabbits. Look for that topic in this section.
    RabbitBreeder.Net is always being updated and improved and I welcome your ideas and suggestions.
    There are several ways to communicate with me such as through posts on this forum or the webmaster email.   webmaster@rabbitbreeder.net


 on: January 22, 2015, 11:25:35 am 
Started by Ken - Last post by Ken
Ear mites (Otodectes cynotis for cats and dogs) (Psoroptes for rabbits) are tiny creatures that live in your rabbits ears. They live there because it nice and warm with plenty of moisture and food.
In rabbits the ear mite can cause the ear to become crusted and infected and becomes really bad. So don't let ear mites go untreated. Usually the rabbit will begin to shake its head and scratch at its ear. These are the first signs of ear mites.
A topical treatment with selamectin can be effective.
Tea Tree Oil works really well but it must be diluted or it will burn(cause pain) the rabbits ear. Dilute Tea Tree Oil with olive oil or witch hazel about 1:10. Shake frequently if you use witch hazel.
I have found that Extra Virgin Olive Oil in the ear will quickly kill the mites and the oil is harmless to the rabbit. If you put too much oil in the ear the rabbit may lick at the oil and get some loose stool from it. The olive oil must be reapplied every 3 days and treated at least 3 times or the mites will grow back from eggs that were not killed by the oil. 

 on: January 15, 2015, 11:21:01 am 
Started by Ken - Last post by Ken
Yes it's true. Rabbit actually eat their own poop and have to re digest the food they eat.
When rabbits eat the food passes through the digestive system and passes out as something called "Cecals". Cecals are smaller very stinky soft poop pellets. The rabbit will eat these and digest them again. The second time the food cecals pass through the rabbit does not eat them and passes them as waste.
Ok so what's the deal here and why do rabbits eat their poop? It's actually simply that they don't digest the food enough the first time it passes though so the food must go through again to get all the nutrients. In fact if a rabbit did not do this they would suffer from malnutrition.

So next time you see bunny doing something disgusting like that(eating cecals) you'll know that it's just nature and their supposed to do it.

Ken Nipper

 on: November 25, 2014, 05:09:32 pm 
Started by Ken - Last post by Rabbit Lover
I didn't know this and started using hay a while back. My bunnies look better and are happier. They really look forward to the hay every day.

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